Collar is considered as the most important part of a custom dress shirt. It is necessary to have some knowhow about the base of the collar and its types. The base of collar is made of stiff cloth of heavy material typically made with cotton is known as buckram. Buckram is not only used in dress shirt collars or cuffs but also in other items that need to stay erect and maintain a stiff position such as hats, draperies, purses, book covers, etc. There are different kinds of techniques are used for the production of buckram. Latest technology includes stiffening with a gap filling liquid substance.
For bookbinding, the same buckram is further hardened by the use of acrylic. The result is quite hard and thick buckram. Mainly the dress shirt collar base type is of cotton, but varieties also exist like linen. The linen based buckram is sometimes thinner than the cotton based buckram. The linen based buckram is produced by weaving the materials together and filling spaces with glued and thick liquid substance. For space filling, commonly pyroxylin is used, but clay and starch are also sometimes used.
For the production of hats and purses, millinery buckram is used. This type is slightly different from the rest; the fabric is first saturated in starch and then molded into the desired shape. When it dries, it holds the pre set shape. Millinery buckram further has three types known as single-ply, double-ply and baby. The baby type is used for soft clothing items such as baby clothing and accessories.